Among the most polluting industries in the world is the textile sector at the top of the list. Fashion ranks second in global pollution by its activity. Big brands like H&M and Zara change their collection in store every two weeks, and thus create an overproduction which impacts the planet and its resources. To become eco-responsible, the major textile brands have declared their commitment to the Global Fashion Agenda from 2020.
The chemicals for the production and manufacture of fibers, the waste of resources caused by overconsumption of clothing, and the pollution generated by the manufacture of clothing in countries far from the countries where they will be sold, fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world.
According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation report, the fashion industry produces 20% of the world's wastewater and 10% of global carbon emissions , more than all emissions from international flights and shipping.
This scourge is aggravated by the dyeing of textiles, the second largest water polluter in the world.
Low-cost manufacturing, a cause of pollution
Big brands like H&M and Zara have recently experienced bad buzz about their means of production. In October 2017, the H&M brand was accused of burning more than 12 tonnes of unsold clothing per year, far from presenting the image of an eco-responsible company. Zara, for her part, suffered an wrath following the revelations on the remuneration of workers in certain factories. They would not be paid for the work done. But the first point mentioned during an eco-responsible policy remains pollution because the brands are very little respectful of the environment. Their products contain many chemicals, which are then released into the water by manufacturing plants. The overproduction of the polyester apparel of these famous brands resulted in an increase of 294% over 2000. This petroleum-based material made fashion one of the first polluting industries. Pollution seeps not only into the soil through the chemicals discharged into the water, but also into the air from the means of distribution, into cotton production and many others. To make a single t-shirt, the impacts are far too heavy.
To control their ecological impact and develop eco-responsible thinking in these large companies, China, the producer country of these brands, has set up a control tool. Supported by the government and a Chinese NGO, it traces with the help of a map the pollution of certain companies at the end of their production. The impact of brands such as the Inditex group (Zara, Pull & Bear, Massimo Dutti, Bershka…), Gap, Puma, Target, Esprit and New Balance is denounced thanks to this interactive map. This control allows companies to have a clear view of their activities and finally to consider eco-responsibility. Such an initiative from China, also helps the consumer to make his opinion on the production of his garment and to put pressure on the big brands so that they change their way of doing things.
An eco-responsible aim
In order to act against pollution of the fashion sector, the Global Fashion Agenda (an eco-responsible organization in the textile sector) has launched a call for several brands. 64 major fashion companies have agreed to sign an agreement with the GFA to improve clothing production. They must be more sustainable and recycled as best as possible to impact the environment as little as possible. The GFA has established many recommendations to lead brands to an eco-responsible practice. The strategy to be implemented concerns four main areas: a circular system, collecting used and unsold clothes, selling or giving them away and, lastly, increasing the production of recycled clothing. The circular design aims to create a system that creates very little waste and has little impact on the environment.
To meet the expectations of the GFA, H&M has declared that it is committed to collecting more than 25,000 used clothes per year. As for the Inditex group, it wants to invest in designer positions to consider creating clothing with a circular design. Large companies are taking a decisive turn to restore the image of their brand and their products. In an era where design concerns consumers, eco-responsibility is becoming a key criterion to be taken into account by brands. They often remain subject to a high production rate to produce more and more in order to keep their pace of a collection every two weeks leading to degrading practices.
In the agreement signed with the organization, each brand is committed to respecting clear objectives, to be achieved by 2020. For the Kering group (owner of Dior, Balenciaga and Gucci) it is a question of considering a upgrading of materials used in production. The group has already taken a step in an eco-responsible approach thanks to the stop of the fur in the manufacture of its clothes. For Veja, a French brand of sneakers, the step has already been taken, it has chosen to reconsider its production, the use of organic cotton and wild rubber from the Amazon promotes an eco-responsible policy. The basketball produced in Brazil and monitored directly by the French teams is attached to standards that are more respectful of the environment. It costs about seven times more expensive unlike other sneakers made in China, but the eco-responsible argument enhances the brand. To achieve this issue, she had to face sacrifices and rethink her organization.
In January 2020, Global Fashion Agenda, which has been leading several initiatives in favor of environmental protection since 2009, welcomed three new associate partners. They are Zalando, Tal Apparel and VF Corporation. They joined the current associate partners which are Allbirds, Crystal International, Erdos Group, Everlane, G-Star Raw, Ganni, Outland Denim and Selfridges Group.
In a statement, David Schneider, co-CEO of Zalando conveyed his intention “Zalando's vision for sustainability is to be a sustainable fashion platform with a net positive impact for people and the planet. This means that we must constantly improve our own business and make it easier for customers to identify and buy more sustainable fashion. We work with strong partners to tackle fundamental sustainability issues in our industry and shape a more sustainable future for fashion. This is why we are happy to have Global Fashion Agenda by our side as a key partner and we believe that we can make a difference together ”.
Large textile groups must question themselves and be warned by organizations like the GFA to consider other environmentally friendly practices. Eco-responsible fashion retains the support of new generations and will become the credo of subsequent generations. Improving its image and developing a business require new criteria because the challenges looming on the horizon are at the heart of growth as well as the protection of the planet and its inhabitants.
Vestiaire Collective partners with Danish brand Ganni
Vestiaire Collective, the world leader in second-hand sales, has just signed a partnership with the Danish brand Ganni to highlight its stocks of second-hand and vintage pieces.
Dubbed "Old + New = Now", the operation unveils a series of videos featuring popular Danish models, artists and decorators under the hashtag of #GANNIGIRLS, sharing their tips on the best ways to incorporate circular fashion into your wardrobe. or to distill good eco-responsible fashion practices.
Committed since 2019 on up-cycling around the GANNI Repeat platform which allows followers of the brand to rent archival and vintage pieces, and since 2020 around the eco-responsible “Gameplan” charter (which wishes to achieve a series of objectives eco-responsible in the next 3 years editor's note), the brand founded by Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup in Copenhagen, therefore affirms its anchoring in the circular economy.
The brand, which turns 21 this year, has experienced an acceleration in its development in recent years and is notably present in 35 countries through 600 resellers and 27 stores.
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